San Rafael de Heredia is hidden between the peaks of the central mountain range, this canton is just fourteen kilometers (9 miles) from San Jose. It´s 29,715 inhabitants live on 48.39 square kilometers (19 miles2). The climate is cool and comfortable. Temperatures in the region's lowlands range from 22 to 24 degrees centigrade (71 - 75 Fahrenheit). In the high lands, it doesn't get above 20° C (68 F). The principal agricultural activities of the region are the cultivation of coffee beans, the growing of vegetables, and dairy farming.
San Rafael de Heredia is one of nature's treasure. It is a healthy, picturesque canton that will transport us back into the past with a unique small town feeling that you will enjoy. Leaving from the Juan Santamaria International Airport, we follow the highway to Rio Segundo de Alajuela. Along the way, we pass San Francisco de Heredia, the center of wich is identifiable by its lovely church. To the east of the church is the childhome home of former Costa Rican president Oscar Arias Sanchez, winner of the Nobel Peace Prize and actual president.
Next, we travel past the provincial capital of Heredia. The road to San Rafael de Heredia continues north of this "City of Flowers". San Rafael's beautiful gothic-style church and attractive park let us know we have found the place we are looking for. From the belfry, one can see the central plateau and La Carpintera Mountains to the south; the peaks of Las Tres Marias and the biological reserve Cerro Chompipe to the north; Alajuela is located to the west; and looking to the southwest is Heredia. Next, we will further head north to discover marvelous enchantments but first, let's see about whetting your appetite. At the center of San Rafael there are different dining options. We begin climbing up into the mountains. Here, the alpine scenery captivates and transports us to seductive spots. A peaceful silence announces special places. Currently, we are in front of the tourist complex Añoranzas. The "Museum Bar Restaurant of Costa Rica", this eating establishment carries one back in time. The restaurant has numerous old newspaper clippings hanging on its walls; it is fascinating to sit and read about daily events of note from over half a century ago.
Telephones, type-writers, photographic cameras, wood stoves and pots resembling those of our grandparents evoke feeling of tender nostalgia; this paradise brings together more than a thousand antiques. As the restaurant's owner, Javier Leandro, expresses, "To remember is to live". The panoramic view allows one to survey five of the county's seven provinces at the same time: Heredia, Alajuela, San Jose, Puntarenas and Guancaste. From here, you can behold spectacular sunsets; see the sun sinking slowly into the ocean, opening the way for the endless number of lights that will transform the night into a special adventure.
Going on, we come across the Humanitarian Association for the Protection of Animals of Costa Rica. Acting as a refuge, this veterinary clinic undertakes the idealistic task of protecting and defending abandoned animals. The institution treats animal with exemplary care and can be a source of qualified medical attention for pets when short of economic resources. Both national and international funding help keep the facility functioning. The organization is, nevertheless, always pleased to receive donations of time, food, medicine and equipment.
Living in this place
All along this route, we can observe daily country life: quaint houses where people still cook with firewood; men and women watering their plants; children jumping rope; and rabbits, ducks and chickens running loose. Entire families work on dairy farms: women drive the livestock and men milk the cows while the children feed the herd (primarily the calves). The serenity that prevails here in the countryside marks a rhythm lacking the accelerated pace of city life. Following our present trajectory, we encounter further gastronomic delights. The best roasted chicken in the zone can be found at Pollos del Monte de la Cruz; Soda La Casita is a restaurant frequented by a large number of Costa Rican families for traditional dishes: gallos, soup and casados (a dish of meat, black beans and rice, commonly accompanied by a cabbage salad).
But let's get back to seeing the sights. There is still much more to be discovered. The precious San Gabriel Chapel emanates a feeling of peace and harmony; it invites us to pause and mediate before, like the sunbeams that vanish trough the trees, we scape to Bosque de la Hoja (Forest of the Leaf).
Strolling along a path of trees, rows of cypresses and dirt trails, accompanied by the breeze that brushes the plants, we find one nature's zoological gardens just waiting to be discovered. The clay colored robin, national bird of Costa Rica, the emerald toucaned, similar to the quetzal; the common barn-owl, a nocturnal bird of prey; the black-faced solitaire; the rofous-collared sparrow; the brown jay.
The tireless stream of song produced by these feathered creatures provides us with a musical setting for our walk. The trails are covered with a musical setting for our walk. The trails are covered with leaves of various shapes, sizes and colors to accompany us on our journey. You can hear the engaging rustle of the trees in a forest planted with multiple shades of green. An upward glance reveals an unexpected landscape which the branches have created especially for us. Nature has even provided us with a few tree roots which act as magical steps as we descend to listen to the rushing water of the river. When we leave this forest, the characteristic smell of it will go with us in our memory. But wait! The trip will not be complete until we have been given a proper farewell by an entourage of beautiful celeste butterflies.
Near the end of the road, we encounter Monte de la Cruz. This municipal park of approximately 12 hectares (46 square miles) is a great place to enjoy birds such as: toucans, resplendent quetzals, yellow-faced grassquit and pauraque. Some mammals found locally are: red-tailed squirrels, opossums, coati, coyotes and margays. Considering that approximately ninety percent of the vegetation is coniferous, the flora here does not vary greatly. Nevertheless, you will be able to observe orchids, hydrangea, wild apples and wildflowers.
In the month of March (on a date designed by the Church), a Costa Rican-style fair is held at Monte de la Cruz. This is an opportunity to enjoy an endless number experiences typical of the region. Races testing one's agility while on horseback, top spinning championships, la bruja roulette, sack races, bingo, cigarrillos (a raffle of tiny surprises), horse parades, bull runs, carrousels, fireworks and, of course, a Costa Rican style soccer game (mejenga), fun for both big and small, are all part of this celebration.
Here, you will be able to nibble gallos of diced chayote, potato, arracache (a vegetable similar to the potato), cheese and beef; eat sausages, tamales and homemade bread; try soups like mondongo, pozol, olla de carne and black bean soup. For dessert, you can enjoy rice pudding and cajetas (dessert bars). While you eat and observe cimarrona bands and marimbas will provide you with background music. In April, the park is the site of another typical celebration. Feria de las Flores (Festival of Flowers) is, not surprisingly, magnificently decorated with wildflowers.
The biological reserve of Cerro Chompipe marks a drastic change in vegetation. This is dense cloud forest. Cold, dampness, and mist will be your constant companions at this stop. Among the most common plants are: moss, ferns, palms, poor's man umbrella, aguacatillos (wild avocados), oak, bromeliads and orchids. Some of the local animals are: resplendent quetzals, finches, siskins and turkey hens; felines like the jaguar, tiger cat, margay; red-tailed squirrels and tapirs.
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