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When the taxi, after an arduous climb through the mountains, swung around a curve and the misty Orosi Valley opened up below, I couldn't help but think: we're not in Kansas anymore. Kansas , of course, being the grimy bustle of San José , and our otherworldly destination being the Hotel Río Perlas Spa and Resort, in the heart of the valley outside tiny Orosi, in the Cartago province, east of San José .
Although the hotel is only an hour southeast of the capital by car “and a 20-minute, ¢5,000 ($10.87) taxi ride from the city of Cartago” its ample grounds, filled with waterfalls, trout ponds and forest, feel a million miles away. Because the hotel is off most tourists' beaten path, even at the peak of the high season, it is a good weekend option for frazzled city-dwellers in search of an uncrowded, peaceful getaway.
Rooms range from $95 for a single ($80 for Costa Rican citizens) to $242 for the presidential suite ($230 for citizens). During the low season, from March 27 (the end of Holy Week) to Dec. 23, rates are slightly lower, beginning at $75 for a single. The rooms are in pretty white casitas (little houses) scattered throughout the grounds; most of the standard rooms share a wall with another, but the junior, master and presidential suites stand alone.
A small van traverses the paved roads connecting the buildings to transport guests between their room and the restaurant, spa or other areas of the resort, if they so desire, although nothing is much more than a five-minute walk away. Hidden away from most of the other buildings, the master suite ($220) features a wide stone porch with inset Jacuzzi, right next to a waterfall rushing into the pond below.
Inside, a living room with wet bar, high-ceilinged bedroom and red tile floor make the suite a comfortable hideaway. All rooms offer a minibar, satellite TV and insanely comfortable beds; non-smoking and wheelchair-accessible rooms are available. What to do when not lounging inside? The hotel's literature boasts of its world-class spa, which, in theory, is open daily from 8:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m.
However, the facility was inexplicably closed for the entirety of our stay. So if manicures ($16.95), pedicures ($22.60), hot-rocks massages ($60) or treatment packages ($50-80) are among your weekend plans, call ahead. The resort also features a hot-spring pool with water warmed by Irazú Volcano, a mountain-water pool with swim-up bar, and a kiddies' pool. For those interested in hiking, approximately 10 kilometers of trails circle the resort's man-made ponds and lead up into the mountains.
The trails were pleasant but muddy during our visit, and would probably be even more so during the rainy season, so again, it would be wise to call ahead to check trail conditions if you plan to tackle the mountain during a rainy-season stay. The hotel offers tours to various attractions, and is 15 km from Tapantí National Park , 57 km from Irazú Volcano and 30 km from the Guayabo Archeological Reserve, so plenty of options are available for those eager to explore the area.
The resort's tranquility extends to the restaurant, La Taberna del Capitán, where the service is rather languid. (Then again, if you were in a hurry, you probably wouldn't be here.) Before your meal, you can sip a drink in the attractive, well-stocked bar, look out over the valley's greenery and red roofs, listen to smooth jazz and enjoy the eclectic decor in one of the dining rooms, Holiday Inn meets Costa Rican rustic, or deep, well-chosen colors in the other.
Stick to typical Costa Rican fare and seafood on the extensive, reasonably priced menu. More ambitious offerings such as caprese salad ($4.50) and French onion soup ($5) were disappointing, but the rosemary grilled shrimp ($15) was nothing short of delectable. Other tempting dishes include trout grilled in foil ($14) and filet mignon with mushroom sauce ($15), and desserts include flan de coco ($3.50) and chocolate mousse ($3.50).
The breakfast prices are rather steep, but you won't feel the pain unless you drop by for just a day at the spa, as breakfast comes included with your room. The various options include a continental breakfast ($6), a full typical breakfast ($8.50) and an omelet made to order ($7.75). Across the way, the El Rancho Steakhouse, an Argentinean grill, is open occasionally and can be rented for parties or other functions, according to hotel manager Juan Carlos González.
The presidential suite can also be rented for meetings, and a unique feature makes the resort ideal for weddings: a chapel modeled after the Iglesia de las Rosas ( Church of Roses ) in Orosi. Construction is still under way on additional cabins and Cartago's first licensed casino, which will be located next to the main entrance and is set to open in 2006, González said. Here's hoping the sound of slot machines and the victorious whoops of successful gamblers won't mar the peace and quiet that, at the end of the day, are Hotel Río Perlas' greatest attractions.
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