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Way down south on the Osa Peninsula, perched between the Golfo Dulce and Pacific Ocean, is a lodge that beckons to all those curious about spending a few days in the jungle. From the moment guests arrive at Bosque del Cabo Rainforest Lodge and are greeted with an ice-cold glass of star-fruit juice (a welcome sight after journeying a hot 45 minutes from the town of Puerto Jiménez) until they check out, this spot provides unique ways to experience all that the Osa has to offer.
That means taking off on your own to explore trails around the 750-acre property leading to creeks and waterfalls through serene primary and secondary rain forest. It means discovering lookout points to take in the Golfo Dulce and Pacific Ocean, or signing up for adrenaline-producing activities such as waterfall rappelling and surfing. Or just hanging out by the pool and sipping the specialty drink of the day.
However guests choose to fill their days at Bosque del Cabo, it's impossible not to come away with the spirit owners Phil and Kim Spier have injected in the place since Phil moved here almost 20 years ago from Florida. Since then, the property has been transformed from a finca victimized by slash-and-burn farming to an ecologically conscious getaway that practices what it preaches by producing its own hydro and solar power, processing gray water and reforesting.
Unharmed by agriculture, the rain forest has since reclaimed the land, as the Spiers will proudly tell you, and native fauna have returned. During my stay, I found myself often conversing with other guests about who'd spotted what animals. The topic naturally comes up, as everyone's on a common mission. On my list: spider monkeys, white-faced capuchin monkeys, toucans and scarlet macaws. Others boasted howler monkey, squirrel monkey and agouti spottings.
Three-toed sloths, anteaters, pumas and jaguars are among other creatures that call the grounds home. The beauty of Bosque is that you don't need a guide to get out and find these Osa Peninsula gems (though an excellent one is available from the early morning through the night to educate you about constellations, birds and symbiotic relationships in the rain forest, among a plethora of other topics). Well-marked trails are easy to find and great for exploring the rain forest or heading to your pick of a few pristine beaches.
Even more beautiful is that you don't have to leave your room to experience nature. In fact, just lying in bed affords a great view of the azure Pacific Ocean beyond trees where monkeys swing and a variety of birds perch. And the bungalows have porches with benches perfectly situated for gazing out at the Pacific. The accommodations at Bosque del Cabo are in line with the owners' mantra of living with nature and not allowing its beauty to be overshadowed by human efforts.
That said, the 10 bungalows that dot the grounds are comfortable havens complete with details such as silky sheets and plush blankets. Safe under the mosquito net, you can fall asleep with the doors open, to the sound of crashing waves and the jungle's nocturnal symphony. The highlight of each bungalow is the outdoor shower, an ingenious design that allows for both total privacy and great ocean and forest views a treat for honeymooners and the nudity-inclined.
Standing under its stream and looking out at the wilderness makes one feel like a true Adam or Eve, uninhibited by clothes or a roof. A mosaic tile bathtub text to the shower offers another delicious experience of simultaneously soaking, stargazing and listening to the animals nearby. Finally, the Vista Mar accommodation, located under the owners' private office, has a queen-size bed, outdoor shower with garden view and private deck.
Given the lodge's isolation, it's natural that prices include all meals, which are served at an open pavilion area next to the pool. Breakfast and lunch are à la carte, with banana pancakes, loaded omelets and, of course, gallo pinto among the options. All are accompanied by a plate of fresh fruit, coffee, tea and fresh juice. Lunch is simple but tasty, with sandwiches such as Phil's famous tuna melt, cheese and avocado and chicken with mango salsa.
Hearty casados with fresh fish, chicken or beef are also always available. For those heading to the beach or elsewhere for the afternoon, the kitchen packs lunches to go.
Dinnertime feels a bit like being at camp for adults. Everyone converges around the dining area and pool as 7 p.m. approaches, sipping drinks and snacking on hors d'oeuvres. Then a conch is blown to announce that dinner is served a Bosque tradition. Guests choose from a few creative menu options most nights, and Friday brings a buffet spread of flavorful meats cooked on the barbecue, as well as plenty to keep veggie lovers happy.
Arugula salad with toasted walnuts and goat cheese and black-eyed pea patties with smoked jalapeño sauce are among the options. Guests sit together at long tables and usually end up swapping stories from the day, but private tables are available for those who don't feel like chatting. The lodge is happy to accommodate vegetarians or those with other special needs, and this flexible attitude extends to all of its services.
At guests' requests, the front desk staff can arrange a wide selection of activities such as sportfishing, snorkeling, horseback riding and boat tours. They can also set up a tour of nearby Corcovado National Park, though it's not essential, Kim says guests who make the trip often come back saying they saw just as much wildlife, if not more, at Bosque.
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