Magical Diversity of Life
The diversity of native Costa Rican plants, mammals, reptiles, insects, and fungi is especially brilliant here. Birders have discovered more than 230 bird species including three-wattled bellbirds, keel-billed toucans, resplendent quetzals, long-tailed manakins, swallow-tailed kites, masked tityras, prong-billed barbets, and many extraordinary species of parrots. Even when the brightly colored birds are hidden in the dense vegetation, you can hear their whistles and squawks.
Mammals include white-faced and howler monkeys, kinkajous, coatis, ocelots, agoutis, brocket deer. One morning I awoke to the clamor of little feet dancing on the tin roof of my bungalow. I poked my head outside and stared into the tiny white faces of three capuchin monkeys. On the path to the kitchen I spied a two-toed sloth draped around the limb of a tree and there it stayed for the next two days.
More than 200 species of butterflies pass through the Ecolodge remanding us of the carefree nature of life. The electric blue Morpho gets much of the attention, but my favorite was the glass-winged butterfly. With transparent wings, it perfectly blends into its background, making it difficult for predators to have them for lunch.
But what I found oddest was its ability to "play possum". I held one in my hand and it played dead. When I dropped it to the ground it suddenly came to life and flit away. At dinner, Kerry explained one theory. The ancestors of the glass wing may have mastered this survival skill after being caught countless times in spider webs. If they became motionless, eventually the spider would cut them out of the web as if they were only forest flotsam, and away they would dart.
Discovering the wonderful "Campesino" Life
The small community surrounding the Ecolodge is undiscovered and unspoiled. The San Luis Valley preserves the pace and atmosphere of a much earlier era. It is Monteverde 40 years ago. Ecolodge guests are encouraged to become familiar with the Valley's "campesinos" culture; I toured a valley farm and was invited in for coffee. There I sat and shared thoughts with people that I would otherwise never have meet.
The home was small, simple, open-air, and very comfortable. One sitting room, one bathroom (outside) and two-bedrooms one shared by three brothers and a sister. No phone, Jet alone an answering machine. Electricity came to the Valley lees than a decade ago. All 400 residents share the Valley's one pay phone.
One night the community came to us for a special celebration. The tables were kicked back and the dining room became a dance hall.
Three local guitar players strummed love songs while school children dressed in traditional multicolored uniforms danced (boys in blue plants, white dress shirt, painted mustache, and carrying colorful handkerchiefs; girls in multi-color skirts, white blouses and no shoes).
Later merengue music began and the real panty started. Older boys shyly approached young girls and asked for a dance while younger boys stayed on the porch to watch.
I was reminded of the manakins-in-training. When you visit the Ecolodge, take advantage of local events such as fiestas, rodeos, and soccer matches. Challenge the staff to volleyball or take a horseback ride to the coffee cooperative. If you want to learn how to make the traditional Christmas disk "tamales" or "gallo" pinto join the cooks in the kitchen—they'll love it.
At whatever place you choose, whether absorbing the novelty of their surroundings from a hammock, soaking in a jungle swimming hole, pursuing elusive creatures with a camera or participating in a reforestation project, you will be exposed first-hand to fascinating ecosystems. Ecolodge San Luis & Biological Station is "designed to attract the intelligent, the curious, and the environmentally concerned."
Although it is located only one valley beyond Monteverde, Ecolodge San Luis is still off the beaten path and untouched by mass tourism. If you want the crowd forest, you can always take a day trip to the attractions of Monteverde and mingle with the tourists at the cheese factory. But, instead of driving your four-wheel drive, take the milk truck up "La Trocha" and go back on time.
Geographical Division 
