If you have only a short time in the capital, here’s what this writer recommends for three great days in San José, no matter what the weather, including day-trip options. One thing about San José, there is always something going on, and downtown has undergone a beautifying facelift. Parks are refurbished, and renovated old houses have been converted into attractive small hotels and restaurants. Pedestrian walkways invite a stroll through the heart of the capital.
The three days include lots of cab-hopping. Compared to major cities around the world, they are very inexpensive. Be sure yours has the meter (maría) running. Day one: Begin your first day by buying the 2002 Exploring Costa Rica guidebook put out by The Tico Times staff, just out. Chock full of the most up-to-date information on the country, it is a complete directory for every style traveler. Most hotel stores carry the guidebook. If not, ask them to order one for you from The Tico Times. The latest issue of The Tico Times is also a worthwhile purchase. Ask for that too.
Remember that downtown San José is laid out on a grid system. Avenues run east and west, Calles (streets) north and south. Avenues north of Avenida Central have odd numbers, those to the south, even. Streets east of Calle Central have odd numbers; to the west, even. Sounds easy, but many have no sign, so when you see one, start counting from there.
Now head off for a dose of culture at the National Museum. Here you can get an overview of the history of the country, along with a nice view of the city.
The small shop offers a good selection of books about the flora and fauna of the country. Buy postcards. Next, to get a feel for the city, walk downhill (west) some 11 blocks to the Central Post Office on Calle 2, Ave. 1/3. Buy stamps. You can also pop into the Internet cafe inside, have a cup of coffee and write and mail your postcards, or e-mail all your friends, telling them how lucky you are to be in Costa Rica.
Now, head south one block to the pedestrian street (Ave. Central). Turn right and go west towards the Central Market (Ave. Central, Calle 6/8). As is typical of most market areas, this is a rougher part of town (keep your valuables in a front inside pocket), but once inside the market, you can marvel at the array and variety of goods. Anything from apples to saddles can be purchased here. Inside, there are small "sodas” (typical Tico eateries) where you can enjoy a "casado” (stew of chicken or beef with all kinds of tropical veggies included, such as yuca and plantains).
It is also possible to do some of your souvenir shopping here. If you don’t want lunch just yet, head back up the pedestrian street until you reach Manolo’s, an old favorite of Ticos and tourists alike, with sidewalk tables where in dry season you can eat and watch the world go by. Try the black-bean soup delicious and with a surprise at the bottom (a hard-boiled egg); the churros are also said to be yummy.
Time for a rest. If it’s rainy season, it will have begun to cloud over by noon and the fabulous tropical rain will pour down so hard that conversation is impossible. Nothing like a cozy nap when it’s raining. Up again, and now it’s time for a decision. How about some natural history for which the country is justifiably famous? Also, decide now if you want a Central Valley adventure on Day Two. Ask the hotel concierge to arrange.
Also decide if on your last night you would like to attend a play in English or Spanish or hear a concert. Sixteen theaters offer wonderful plays in Spanish, and one theater in Escazú offers works in English. Again, check your Tico Times or guidebook for numbers and ask your concierge to arrange. Take a cab to Spirogyra, 50 m. west, 150 m. south of San Francisco de Guadalupe Church, 8 a.m.-5 p.m., daily, $6, children $3). Wander though a collection of plants favored by butterflies and hummingbirds and check out the exhibits on these fluttering lovelies in all life cycles.
When your tour is finished, the skies should have cleared and you will want to head back to the center for a break at the Gran Hotel Costa Rica (Ave. 2, Calle 3/5), one of the first hotels built in the capital, for a drink, or coffee and a goody, and a chance to watch the passersby while you check your guidebook about where you want dinner. Multiple choices abound. This writer’s favorites are the following five: for excellent French food and service, take a cab into Los Yoses to the Ile de France Restaurant in the Le Bergerac; for Asian delicacies in town, walk over to the Tin Jo; for Korean/Japanese, cab to the Little Seoul in Pavas/Rohrmoser. Meal options include cooking at your own table.
Feel like Catalán food? Grab a taxi to Sabana Sur and eat at the Casa Luisa. Try the lamb with garlic and olive oil, incredibly delicious. For international-nouvelle cuisine, Cafe Mundo in the heart of Barrio Otoya is also a good choice. It is a good idea to call all of these in advance to make sure they are open and to make reservations. Also ask your concierge to reconfirm your flight out. Home again and beddy-bye. Or, if you still have enough energy and want to try some nightlife, you could spend some time in one of the seven casinos. If you prefer the disco bar scene, check your guidebook and head to one of the many around town.
Geographical Division 
