A crew was attempting to film a commercial on the Rio Naranjo for Camel Cigarettes' "rugged outdoors" series in 1982 when a flash flood roared down the river with a front wave five feet high. The Camel Man was perched midstream on a completely inoperable log raft secured and directed by underwater ropes while he "guided" the raft through a small rapid with the tiller. The surging current snapped the guide ropes instantly, sending Mr. Rugged Outdoors rapidly downstream on an unexplored river.
He was quite taken with this new experience, for he had never actually floated down a whitewater river, despite being portrayed as a macho riverman. River guide Tom Wise, who had been hired to provide technical assistance, jumped into his kayak and pursued the runaway raft. Both vessels disappeared around the bend on the swell of the flood. Local newspapers reported the deaths of Mrs. Camel and Wise, but fortunately for all involved, Tom was able to quote Mark Twain in saying that "rumors of my demise have been much exaggerated".
Until 1992, the Naranjo was known primarily for the near disaster involving the Camel Man. In recent years, however, it has become increasingly popular. Its main attractions are its moderate difficulty, attractive scenery, and its proximity to Quepos and Manuel Antonio National Park. The estuary of the Rio Naranjo forms the southern border of the park, separating this popular tourist attraction and monkey haven from the farms and plantations to the south.
There are two distinctly different sections of the Naranjo: the upper Class V Labyrinth section and the lower, more accessible Class III run from Londres to the coast. Both are lovely sections of river, but the scenery in the Labyrinth is more spectacular, offering an enchanting canyon run through pristine jungle. It is also possible to put in about three kilometers (1.9 mi.) upstream from Londres in order to enjoy several Class IV drops.
The Labyrinth's offer is not for free, and a choice to run this stretch should be made only after careful consideration of the difficulties and hazards. While the Labyrinth canyon is one of the most exciting, beautiful, and continuous runs yet attempted in Costa Rica, it is also one of the most dangerous. The canyon is remote and inaccessible, making evacuations extremely difficult. One drop in the gorge is considered Class VI but it is difficult to avoid.
The lower Naranjo has become a popular wet season run because of its beautiful scenery, abundant wildlife, fun whitewater, and proximity to Manuel Antonio National Park. The rapids are not difficult, but they provide plenty of challenges for intermediate paddlers and play spots for more advanced boaters.
Gracias a Dios Creek to Londres
Degree of Difficulty: Class V (VI)
Gradient: feet per mile ( m/km)
Length: miles ( km)
Put-in Elevation: feet ( m)
Take-out Elevation: 525 feet (160 m)
Drainage Area: 82 square miles (210 km2)
Average Discharge: 1025 cfs (29 cms)
Season: wet season only: July - November; avoid high water. The gravel bar just upstream of the Quepos/Dominical highway bridge should be just under water (by a few inches)
There is nothing easy about running the Labyrinth Gorge, including the put-in. From the Quepos area, drive towards Dominical on the main highway, but go straight at the crossroads, towards Londres. About a kilometer (0.6 mi.) past Naranjito, take a left at the fork in the road. This is the Villa Nueva road; it snakes along the west side of the Naranjo canyon. Continue approximately two kilometers (1.2 mi.) past Esquipulas to the first creek crossing. This is Gracias a Dios Creek, and it is your avenue of access to the river. Park at the top and start carrying down the creekbed. It takes about 40 minutes to reach the river.
Having reached the Naranjo, you will find yourself in a magnificent valley with spectacular views. The river provides a kilometer or so of Class III-IV warm-up rapids before it drops into a steep, slick-walled canyon and the level of difficulty increases dramatically. The first rapid in the canyon is a class IV boulder garden. Next is Warehouse Rock, an unmistakable monolith on river right. Scout LSD (Left Side Desired; Class IV) here. The drop has a keeper ledge hole that stretches from the center to the right wall of the channel.
As the name implies, the sneak route is between boulders on the left. You will want to get out of your boat at the blind right turn at the bottom of LSD. The somewhat treacherous left-side scout offers a view of DNA. DNA is a Class IV s-turn, but the real reason for scouting here is to make sure that you can see, and later catch, the pool below it. This pool wells up above a Class VI waterfall and the only opportunity to scout and/or carry comes from a micro-eddy on the right. The eddy probably disappears at high water (above 800 c.f.s.) and if you should miss this eddy, you will be forced to make a blind run down a Class VI drop.
The drop, known as La Ducha, is formed where the entire river is constricted into a channel that is 1 1/2 meters (5 feet) wide and 6 meters (20 feet) in length; the exit is only one meter (3 feet) wide. The river pours over a vertical drop of over 2 meters (7 feet) with a powerful recirculation at the bottom. Running this drop is life threatening, and it is not something that you would want to be forced to do. La Ducha has been run at low water, but it is subject to change due to varying river levels and channel materials. The portage is easy provided that there is an eddy.
Following the falls are several Class I-II rapids before the river bends to the left at Rodent's Run, a Class IV boulder dodge which can be run far right or left. In the following straightaway there are challenging Class III-IV stairstep drops. At the foot of the last stairstep, stop to scout on the right. The river narrows into a chute, moves left, then disappears to the right. This is Twist of Fate, a Class IV-V corkscrew that empties into a pool above a river-wide log jam. Most groups which have run this section have used a difficult portage across Limbo Rock on the left. Immediately below the log is Class IV Defenestration, a boulder dodge. Start left and work right.
The last rapid of the Labyrinth canyon is Rapture, which is a stairway of three drops that hound each other for space. The commencement is Class III, the middle drop Class IV, and the final one is Class V. The last of the three stairsteps is a 2 1/2 meter (8 feet) flushing pour-over. Scouting from the shore is difficult to impossible, but it is possible to see the rapid before paddling the gorge by hiking down a creek from the eastern rim road. Try to stay right.
At this point, the valley opens up and the rapids drop to Class III. There is one Class IV (debatable) rapid where the river parts into two channels and bends to the left. Egress from the river is much easier in this lower section, should it be necessary. Roads follow the river on both sides, at a distance of about half a kilometer (0.3 mi.).
The first descent of the Labyrinth was accomplished in early December 1993 by a team from Iguana Tours/Rios Tropicales. The team consisted of Grady Garlough, Tom Hinds, and Andy "Pina" Lee. The description of the river is taken from Tom Hinds' river notes.
Naranjo Section: 3Km above Londres to Llamaron
Degree of Difficulty: Class III-IV
Gradient: 75 feet per mile (14 m/km)
Length: 6.2 miles (10 km)
Put-in Elevation: 525 feet (160 m)
Take-out Elevation: 59 feet (18 m)
Drainage Area: 82 square miles (210 km2)
Average Discharge: 1025 cfs (29 cms)
Season: wet season only: July - November
This section of river provides continuous Class III+ to IV- rapids and fascinating scenery. The more difficult rapids are found above the Londres bridge, so intermediate paddlers may want to put in below the bridge. Downstream from the bridge, most of the rapids are in the Class II+ range. Although the river is not remote, the agricultural landscape here is quite attractive during the rainy season. Roads follow the stream on both sides at a distance of only about a kilometer, so evacuation would be easy in the event of difficulties.
The whitewater on the Naranjo is nearly continuous. At low water, the rapids are definitely bony, but high water runs provide numerous opportunities for wave surfing. With this section of river so close, do not leave your boat in San Jose when visiting Manuel Antonio during the wet season.
Naranjo Section: Llamaron to Pacific Ocean
Degree of Difficulty: Class II
Gradient: 60 feet per mile (11.4 m/km)
Length: 5.0 miles (8.1 km)
Put-in Elevation: 59 feet (110 m)
Take-out Elevation: sea level
Drainage Area: approximately 100 square miles (257 km2)
Average Discharge: 1200 cfs (29 cms)
Season: wet season only: July through November
The lower section of the river is much flatter, but provides opportunities for viewing wildlife and combining easy whitewater with challenging surf. Crocodiles can be found in the river without difficulty and the last mile provides impressive views of the islands offshore. After reaching the sea, a session of saltwater surfing is a great way to end the trip. The most difficult challenge on this run is in finding a take-out.
