Degree of Difficulty: IV+
Gradient: 126 feet per mile (23.8 m/km)
Length: 3.9 miles (6.3 km)
Put-in Elevation: 2690 feet (820 m)
Take-out Elevation: 2200 feet (670 m)
Drainage Area: 200 square miles (515 km2)
Average Discharge: 823 cfs (23.3 cms)
Season: June through mid-December; excessive flows are common.
While maintaining only one-half the gradient of the previous section, this section of the Chirripo still contains some very difficult whitewater. The river drops continuously over a boulder-laden course that provides numerous broaching opportunities. No portages are necessary, but neither are there many eddies to catch. The channel is quite narrow and large trees hanging over the river block the sun, adding to the difficulties and the sense of impending disaster for those who are not comfortable with such continuous, challenging boating.
Those expert paddlers who have paddled it repeatedly consider it to be some of the most fun boating in Costa Rica. Due to the continuous drops found in this section, it would not be prudent to paddle it at even moderately high water levels. Look for just enough water to provide clean passage through the rock jumbles.
Chirripo Atlantico Section: Chirripo behind to Hermosa Beach
Degree of Difficulty: Class V, VI
Gradient: 84 feet per mile, up to 170 ft/mile (16 m/km; 32 m/km)
Length: 18 miles (29 km)
Put-in Elevation: 1770 feet (540 m)
Take-out Elevation: 260 feet (80 m)
Drainage Area: 319 square miles (820 km2)
Average Discharge: 2300 cfs (65 cms)
Season: All year: excessive water frequent in wet season commonly too low to be any fun in February, March.
Originating high on the eastern flank of Cerro Chirripo, Costa Rica's highest peak, the Chirripo del Atlantico flows through some of the most isolated, pristine alpine and subalpine terrain in all of the Americas. No roads approach the stream until it has flowed for over 40 miles (65 km) and dropped 10,000 feet (3000 m) from the crest of the Talamanca range. During that descent, it picks up numerous tributaries, many of which join the deep canyon of the Atlantico by dropping over dramatic waterfalls. The stream is accessible at only two points within its canyon, where primitive trails lead to a few isolated dwellings and small farms.
The Chirripo del Atlantico remained an unpadded mystery until quite recently. From the topographic maps it showed great promise: virgin rainforest without farms, houses, or people for almost 20 miles 32 km), a steep gradient, and incredible mountain scenery. Flowing parallel to the Pacuare and only 8 to 10 miles (13 to 16 km) from it in places, it was correctly assumed that the Atlantico contained incredible scenery, challenging whitewater, and excellent water quality.
Several parties planned first descents on the Atlantico in 1984, but it was a small group of kayakers that made the first run in December of that year. December is ordinarily a month of greatly diminished rainfall throughout Costa Rica, but conditions were unusually wet that year. When Tom Wise, Rafael Gallo, Earl Alderson, and Jim Reed began the 6 mile (10 km) hike to the river from the end of the road, they found hip-deep mud and very difficult walking conditions on the trail. It took the group an afternoon and the following morning to reach the river, with heavy rain falling intermittently. During their night on the trail, they found shelter in a small barn.
The initial elation of the group on finding the first two miles (3.2 km) of the river to contain exhilarating Class IV whitewater was soon tempered by the harsh reality of endless Class V and VI rapids and rapidly rising water levels (the Chirripo reached a discharge of over 12,000 cfs on the last day of the exploratory trip). There is no way to exit the canyon except to continue downstream, and each roaring tributary added to the woes of the exploratory run. During the second day on the river, the group was able to cover only 2 km. because most of the reach was unrunnable and portages were extremely difficult in the narrow boulder-studded gorge. On the third day, the group was eventually forced to run a Class VI nightmare that they dubbed The Gauntlet when no feasible portage route could be found.
Out of food and exhausted from the constant portages and difficult rapids, the group finally reached the mouth of the Rio Moravia. The Moravia joins the Atlantico by dropping 1000 feet (300 m) from Laguna Moravia in only 1.6 miles (2.6 km), producing a spectacular chain of waterfalls. Below the mouth of the Moravia, the gradient of the Atlantico drops to 55 feet per mile (10.4 m/km) and the rapids diminish in difficulty in a nice progression from Class V to IV, to III, and finally to Class II. A very primitive dirt road leads to Playa Hermosa, but it is probably easier to paddle another 8 miles (13 km) to the paved road at Bristol.
Many other groups have now paddled the Atlantico at various water levels. Some have found ideal water levels for an expert wilderness expedition but some have found water levels to be too low, or even worse, too high. A few individuals have now run all of the drops at low water (less than 1500 cfs). It is very hard to find that ideal water level between the frustration of insufficient flows and the fear and very real danger produced by high flows on the Atlantico. In addition, the river is susceptible to rapid rises due to the heavy rainfall that occurs on the windward slopes of the Talamanca range.
It is recommended that the Atlantico be attempted only at low water by true experts with supplies for two days and the stamina for a long carry in and possible portages. Even more than paddling skills, a person choosing to run this river must have the judgement needed to decide when to portage and when to terminate a trip when water conditions become unfavorable. Despite its beautiful mountain scenery, challenging rapids, clear water, and splendid isolation, the difficulties and dangers associated with running this river are so great as to preclude only the most determined expedition-style parties from attempting it.
The Atlantico was severely impacted by the 1991 earthquake. Numerous landslides occurred in its gorges, and the rapids changed substantially. Reports from those who ran the Atlantico in 1994 and early 1995 indicate that all the landslide debris has now been removed from the channel, but extra caution is still advised.
Chirripo Pacific Section: Canaan to Rivas
Degree of Difficulty: V-V+
Gradient: 211 feet per mile (40 m/km)
Length: 5.6 miles (9 km)
Put-in Elevation: 3870 feet (1180 m)
Take-out Elevation: 2690 feet (820 m)
Drainage Area: 123 square miles (315 km2)
Average Discharge: 823 cfs (23.3 cms)
Season: moderate water only, June through December. Check water levels before attempting this run.
One need only examine the gradient of this section of river to get an idea of how difficult it is; the river drops at rates of up to 250 feet per mile (47 m/km) in this short, intense section of the Chirripo (chee ree POE). At the take-out for this section, the Chirripo merges with the Rio Buenavista, thus forming the Rio General. Despite what some whitewater rafters call it, the proper name for the river from this point downstream (until it joins the Coto Brus) is the Rio General. This uppermost section of the river is extremely steep and difficult. It is recommended only for the most competent experts, with all possible precautions taken.
