On the hills of Tenorio Volcano there hides a natural wonder that bewilders locals and outsiders: a river whose waters are not clear but of a deep, sky-blue color meandering through the forest and filling it with magic and charm.
Its name is Rio Celeste (literally, "Sky-blue River"). It runs down the lush forests of Tenorio Volcano National Park, which is located in the Alajuela cantons of Upala and Guatuso and the Guanacaste cantons of Cafias, Bagaces and Tilaran.
The intense sky-blue color of the river is apparently due to chemical reactions between elements coming off the volcano, including calcium carbonate and sulfur, at a point known as "Los Tefiideros" (The Dyers) exactly the place where the amazing mix is generated.
To reach Rio Celeste, you must first arrive in the community of Bijagua de Upala take the San Carlos, Upala highway or the road from Cafias to Upala. Some 5 km past Upala, on the right hand side, you will find the entrance to the park. It is recommended that you ask for directions in Bijagua, as the entrance is not marked.
From there you must drive 10 km on rural roads, past the small town of El Pilon, before reaching the Environment Ministry's (MINAS) post of the same name. In this area you will find numerous rivers and creeks, as water is abundant in the park.
The park has a single trail, which provides access to all tourist attractions there. The total hike is about 3 km, which takes you to Los Tefiideros, thermal pools, a lookout point, the Laguna Azul (Blue Lagoon) and the famous Rio Celeste Waterfall one of the most beautiful in the country.
The first attraction you see is, in fact, the waterfall, but we have decided to leave it for last. The lookout point is next, from where the silhouette of Tenorio Volcano can be appreciated in its entire splendor. The Laguna Azul can be found after descending down a steep hill. It is a tranquil pool of deep, sky-blue hues. Not far from there is the "Borbollones" section of the river, where thermal waters boil and a strong smell of sulfur fills the air. Following the trail and after walking on a suspended bridge dubbed "Mysteries of the Tenorio" we finally reach the famous Los Tefiideros. A unique natural phenomenon can be enjoyed here: a creek flows into the main river, bringing together the elements that turn the water sky-blue. It's a pleasure for the eyes and the soul.
Past this point are gentle thermal pools where visitors can bathe and enjoy the benefits of mineral rich water a treat for those who want to relax.
We now return to the intersection that leads to the waterfall. The downhill trail is steep, but park rangers and tourists told us the treasure below is well worth the effort.
From where we are we can hear the powerful sounds of the waterfall. Something majestic truly awaits us.
We reach the bottom and find the waterfall before our eyes. It's a strong, imposing spectacle of gushing water that ends in a sky-blue pool. Nature lovers will find it truly pleasing.
Climbing back up the hill is quite a task, so make sure you wear comfortable hiking shoes. Also take an umbrella or poncho and enough water to keep hydrated. It's a good idea to take a bathing suit or bathing trunks to enjoy the thermal pool.
By the way, that's the only place where bathing is allowed park rangers recommend not entering the waters anywhere else a the possible effects of the Rio Celeste minerals on the body are not known.
Besides that restriction, you can freely enjoy the trails and sights of the Tenorio. If you are lucky you might get to see some animals and also enjoy orchids and birds.
