By Ann Antkiw
Offering an unforgettable white-water experience, the Pacuare River is perhaps the wildest, most scenic in Costa Rica, and one of the top rafting rivers in the world. It meanders through calm stretches past virgin rain forest, tumbles over Class III and IV rapids and then plunges through a series of spectacular canyons with near vertical forested walls towering hundreds of meters above. As you hurtle headlong into the Class IV rapids, your raft pitches, lurches and tosses you about, giving you the thrill of a lifetime.
Outfitter Aventuras Naturales offers much more than the excitement of the rapids. A two- or three-day adventure with an overnight or two-night stay at the Pacuare Lodge will give you an amazing tropical wilderness experience.The lodge is 20 miles from the Caribbean-slope town of Siquirres, deep inside the Pacuare Protected Zone. It's accessible only by raft or four-wheel-drive vehicle.
Three options exist: you can raft both ways; take the 4x4 transport one way, either in or out; or, if rafting doesn't appeal to you, take the land transport both ways. Safety on the river and guest comfort and enjoyment at the lodge are paramount, as is the minimal environmental impact on the natural paradise that surrounds it.
Costa Rican owners Roberto Fernández and his wife Luz Caceres have designed and constructed the lodge to blend with the surrounding environment.
We are recognized by the World Tourism Organization as one of only 65 examples in the world of good practices in sustainability and ecotourism,” boasted the charming Fernández.
All supplies at the lodge are rafted in, including food, drinks, construction materials and furnishings, as well as clean and dirty linens, both ways.
“Garbage is separated and biodegradable waste is processed on site. We recycle everything we can and any leftovers are rafted out,” Fernández said.
There is no electricity at the lodge, only a small generator for kitchen appliances. When night falls, more than a hundred candles are lit in the main lodge, and flickering candlelight in the bungalows make this Tarzan and Jane paradise one of the most romantic getaways in Costa Rica.
Stone pathways lead to the all-wood bungalows with palm-thatched roofs, which are scattered around the colorful, landscaped tropical garden. Designed by architect Francisco Rojas, they offer simplistic luxury and absolute privacy.
The new, open-sided, completely screened River-View Suites are stunning; the king-size canopy beds with Beauty rest mattresses must be the most comfortable you'll ever find. These and other bamboo furnishings were designed by bamboo artist and furniture maker Brian Erickson out of his workshop on the Río Blanco, near Guápiles (TT, Jan. 19).
Interior designer Rocío Quesada chose white as the dominant color, and the sparkling white linens, fluffy towels and flimsy drapes appear somewhat incongruous in the middle of the jungle, yet are a perfect addition to the spacious, hardwood-floored interior.
Taking a shower presents a dilemma: which bathroom to use? The spacious, fully tiled one with burnished copper fixtures, or the alfresco one open to the heavens? Both have solar-heated showers, but remember to leave your electric shaver and hair dryer behind.
A hardwood deck overlooks the river and towering banks of verdant rain forest beyond. The large terrace with hammock and bamboo and rattan furnishings is perfect for relaxing or sipping your morning coffee, delivered by one of the attentive staff. The only things missing are a closet for hanging clothes and a clothesline for drying garments wet from the river.
The older, also secluded Garden Bungalows are smaller and have the same canopy beds, a futon couch, private terrace and nice bathrooms with solar-heated showers.
The Honeymoon Suite is undergoing renovations at present, but offers total privacy and tranquility. An extensive front deck, thatched-roof rancho and a hanging bridge to a private lookout among the treetops, as well as a small pool, make this a magical place for any couple.
The main lodge, a palm-thatched, two-story structure, offers panoramic views of the river and rain forest.
An appetizing full breakfast is served on the expansive deck and includes fresh fruit, delicious homemade bread and granola. Lunch and dinner are served in the open-air, first-floor restaurant. A simple, tasty lunch menu consisting of a pasta, rice or couscous dish is accompanied by a crisp salad and fresh fruit. The candlelit dinner, a gourmet jungle feast, offers a choice of meat, chicken, fish or a vegetarian dish on request.
Upstairs, the spacious, open-sided lounge and bar is a delightful place where guests congregate for cocktail hour and chat about their adventures.
The two-day package gives you time to enjoy a beautiful but easy hike to a nearby waterfall. The Canopy Adventure takes you soaring through the treetops along a series of transverse cables, and throws in a thrilling rappel and rope swing to the forest floor. A soothing Therapeutic Rain forest Massage is also available.
The three-day package allows time for a strenuous hike to a Cabécar indigenous village or a horseback ride to the small, nearby village of Bajo del Tigre.
Many happy guests have said that a Pacuare River and Pacuare Lodge adventure has been the highlight of their stay in Costa Rica, thanks to the excellent service, friendly staff and safety-conscious guides.
Activities and Sports 
